Dinosaurs in Situ

2023-11-06 00:17:16

Explore our national parks — their history, their people, and their stories.

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This fall, L.L. Bean wants to help you feel great out there, with gear tips and advice

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log, or stretch of ground into a perfect seat for a quick rest.

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For more tips, easy how-tos, and inspiring stories, visit LLBean.com slash guide.

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For many people, a memorable childhood experience is seeing the dinosaur skeletons in a natural

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history museum.

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Massive bones tower over us in a room with an endlessly high ceiling.

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Teeth the size of daggers and eye sockets the size of baseballs leave visitors, young

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and old alike, in awe.

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Our imaginations run wild with mental images of a land full of gigantic lizards.

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Young children don't stop to think about where the bones came from or how they happened

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to be in the museum.

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But as adults, we understand that the fossils were excavated from a dig site by paleontologists,

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reassembled to their original configuration, and then enhanced if portions are missing.

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The displays in the museum might be the original find, or it might be a replica.

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With the original preserved and the part of the museum collections the general public

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never gets to glimpse.

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We understand that a huge amount of work went into the discovery, excavation, identification,

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correct assembly, and preservation.

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But what if we could see dinosaur bones in an actual dig site?

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What if we could experience firsthand the thrill of seeing the jumble of fragments of

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different prehistoric animals?

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Can we truly imagine the enormity of having to tease it all apart, put the right bones

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together to make the animals that actually existed, rather than a haphazard mix and match?

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I'm Jason Epperson, and today on America's National Parks, we'll explore just that,

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dinosaur fossils in situ, at one of my favorite lesser-visited national park sites in the

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country, the wild and beautiful Dinosaur National Monument.

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In the northeast corner of Utah, the westernmost entrance to Dinosaur National Monument welcomes

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visitors along the banks of the Green River, the road separated from the water by desert

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scrub foliage.

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Now, Dinosaur National Monument is a huge place, and there's so much to do beyond dinosaurs,

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including whitewater rafting.

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But if you want to see fossils, the Fossil Discovery Trail behind the Quarry Visitor

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Center snakes through the rugged landscape.

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The trail erupts in the colors and textures of the desert.

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Gently rounded hills, spiky hills with stony plates that look like the trademark back of

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a stegosaurus.

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A hillside covered in a mix of boulders that look like the surface of the moon, and orange-colored

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rocks that look like they've been sliced from a giant carrot.

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Rocks so bright it seems the colors must have been painted onto them.

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Don't be distracted by the scenery.

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This is an eagle-eye paleontology adventure trail, but the intrepid hiker needs to focus.

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Constantly scanning the rock face and the three fossil offshoots of the main trail to

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discover the ultimate reward.

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A far cry from standing in the rotunda of a museum face-to-face with dinosaur skeletons

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too big to miss.

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Here the thrill is in the chase.

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The chance that if you're not fully immersed in the mission of finding dinosaur fossils

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embedded in the rocks, you will simply miss them and be crushingly disappointed.

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Each of the three offshoots has different types of fossils, and they're cleverly disguised

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amidst their rocky tombs.

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The Maori Shale offshoot features fossilized fish scales.

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Don't be fooled by the name, Maori Shale is the host rock, not the fossil.

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The face of the Maori Shale is a fairly flat surface, and if the light is right and you

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look at the shale from this angle and that angle, you will start to notice dark gray

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and golden colored circles on its surface.

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These circles are the fish scales, all that's left after their bodies decomposed and the

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bones washed away.

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The Stump Formation is another marine fossil bed.

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Here in this former ocean environment, fossils of clams, snails, ammonites, and squid lie

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embedded in the textured surface of the stone.

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But we are on the lookout for dinosaurs after all, and dinosaur fossils are indeed found

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along this trail.

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Paleontological exploration of the Morrison Formation uncovered ten different species

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of dinosaur.

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Most of the fossil bones were excavated and removed to scientific centers and museums,

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but some remain embedded here in the stone along the trail.

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Many are small fragments, but you can find and touch a leg bone, and if you look hard

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enough, you'll find vertebrae as well.

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But the true treasure trove is at the end of the trail, in the Quarry Exhibit Hall.

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The approach is quite thrilling, past a series of time markers, taking visitors on a journey

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through the past.

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Four million years ago, the earliest human ancestors evolved in Africa.

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Five million years ago, the Green and Yampa Rivers cut canyons.

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Forty-five to sixty-five million years ago, the Rocky Mountains rise up.

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Sixty-five million years ago, all dinosaurs go extinct.

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It's a serious moment in the park, standing dwarfed by the landscape on the precipice

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of today and yesteryear.

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So many yesteryears ago that it's hard to fathom.

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Dinosaurs roamed this very spot, living here, dying here, disappearing here, until time,

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science and persistence unearthed them.

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It can make a person feel very small, insignificant really, just a single raindrop in an ocean

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of whatever came before humans, before self.

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In the Exhibit Hall, from wall to wall, from floor to stories high ceiling, stretches a

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wall so curious, so stunning, that it takes your breath away.

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This is the in-situ treasure, the jumbled array of prehistory, the mind-boggling reality

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of what looks like a massive three-dimensional sculptural mural.

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But this is not a piece of artwork representing the discovery of dinosaurs.

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This natural-made mural is a geological uplift of a portion of the Morrison Formation that

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contains over 1,500 dinosaur bones.

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Ribs and skulls and legs and vertebrae and teeth all scattered together in a glorious

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scientific mess.

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It's not been placed here.

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The building has been built around it, in all its climate-controlled glory, I might

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add.

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So how did this portion of the Morrison Formation remain intact, save from the removal for further

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study?

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In the early 1900s, the area that is now the quarry section of Dinosaur National Monument

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was an active paleontology quarry under the auspices of the Carnegie Museum, after its

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discovery by field collector Earl Douglas.

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In an interesting twist, Douglas at first thought he had discovered a most well-preserved

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but single dinosaur, a brontosaurus as it was known at the time, at a divide between

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two sandstone beds, he saw the protuberance of several beautifully preserved tailbones

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poking out from the weathered stone.

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It was, he said, by far the best-looking dinosaur remains he had ever found.

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It took months before he realized he had uncovered a vast bone bed, which turned out to be one

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of the most ecologically complete collections of late Jurassic dinosaurs in the world.

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Douglas and his crew discovered 11 different species of dinosaur, just in the Carnegie

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quarry portion of the park.

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Other species of dinosaur have been discovered elsewhere in the park as well, but the Carnegie

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quarry was the biggest operation, and the one that yielded the fossil wall in the quarry

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exhibit hall.

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The Carnegie crew excavated and removed over 350 tons of fossils from the Carnegie quarry,

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comprising over 300 dinosaur specimens.

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The ones that could form complete or nearly complete skeletons became what is known as

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mountable skeletons, display exhibits at famous museums where many of us first became acquainted

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firsthand with dinosaurs, the Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, of course, as

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well as the American Museum of Natural History in New York City and the Smithsonian in Washington.

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By the mid-1920s, the bulk of the Carnegie excavation was complete, and the uplift now

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comprising the fossil wall was left intact, a veritable refuse heap of dinosaur scraps.

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George Smith, director of the U.S. Geological Survey at the time, is credited with preserving

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the in-situ bone bed for viewing by the public at the site where it was found.

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Earl Douglas planted the seeds for this idea from the earliest days, when the enormity

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of his discovery dawned on him.

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He envisioned an in-situ display at the Carnegie Museum.

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He wrote, quote,

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Say if this nest of dinosaurs could be mounted in relief, in a great block in the position

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in which they were found, it would be the greatest group on earth.

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Dinosaur National Monument covers over 200,000 acres of land in Colorado and Utah.

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This is not a desert wasteland.

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Wildlife is abundant, with a variety of amphibians, birds, reptiles, fish, and mammals,

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including bighorn sheep, bobcats, and mountain lions, frogs, toads, salamanders,

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peregrine falcons, and prairie dogs.

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But of course, the animals of greatest interest can only be found in their fossils, the dinosaurs.

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Dinosaurs found on the grounds of what is now Dinosaur National Monument include some

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famous types, Apatosaurus, which for many years had been incorrectly identified as Brontosaurus,

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the very long-necked and tailed Diplodocus, and the uniquely platent Stegosaurus.

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Aside from dinosaur fossils, the park offers myriad recreational opportunities,

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including scenic drives, hiking, river rafting, and camping.

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Much of the Utah section of the park is open year-round.

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The park sits on the Colorado-Utah border.

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The Colorado portion is seasonal, typically open from mid-May to October.

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More than 600 species of plants can be found in the park,

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and many, such as the globe mallow and various types of cacti, sport showy spring flowers.

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In fact, Dinosaur National Monument is an exceptionally beautiful park.

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Rippling desert hills paint the landscape an astonishing variety of colors,

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browns, pinks, reds, chalky greens, and mustard yellow.

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The remnants of tilted tectonic plates bear witness to the ever-changing geology of the land.

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Petroglyphs adorn the rock faces in several easily accessible areas of the park.

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The westernmost entrance to the park is just over three hours from Salt Lake City.

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A trip to Dinosaur National Monument can be combined with Fossil Butte National Monument

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and Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.

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Other National Park Service sites feature fossils in situ as well,

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although they do not fit together in a convenient contiguous trip.

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Waco Mammoth National Monument preserves the in situ fossilized remains of six

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nearly intact Colombian mammoths from the Pleistocene Epoch, as well as a camel and saber-toothed cat.

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At Badlands National Park, where the terrain erodes at a rapid pace,

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visitors and staff continue to discover fossil beds to this day.

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Agate Fossil Beds National Monument features trace fossils of the environments of the animals

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that had lived there, including corkscrew-shaped burrows of an ancient beaver-like animal,

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as well as fossilized roots, insect holes, and burrows of other long-extinct rodents.

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The sedimentary rock of Grand Canyon National Park exposes in situ marine fossils,

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such as brachiopods and sponges, as well as terrestrial fossils, including leaves,

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insect wings, scorpions, and reptiles.

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Dried Tortugas National Park is a good place to see in situ fossils by snorkeling in the

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shallower areas. The fossils include corals, mollusks, and invertebrates.

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Speaking of coral fossils, Biscayne National Park's upper keys are composed of fossilized

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coral reefs. Petrified Forest National Park showcases petrified wood, which is fossilized

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trees.

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Don't forget that fossils fall under the same rule as anything else you find at a national

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park. Visitors cannot remove any bits of nature from the parks, nor even dig up fossils and

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leave them in the same spot, or move any fossils to new areas. If you discover fossils at the

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parks, leave them in place, photograph them, and note the location to report to the park

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staff. This way, they continue to be preserved for all visitors.

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This episode of America's National Parks was written by Lauren Eisenberg Davis, and

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I'm your host, Jason Epperson. If you enjoyed the show, please consider leaving us a rating

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and a review. If you're new here, make sure to subscribe to the podcast to get new episodes

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delivered to your feed. If you're looking for photos and tips about visiting national parks,

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check out our America's National Parks Facebook group. And if you're interested in RV travel,

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we hope you'll also check out our RV Miles podcast and YouTube channel.

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Today's show was sponsored by L.L. Bean. Follow the hashtag Be an Outsider and visit

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LLBean.com to find great gear for exploring the national parks.

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And by Solostove. Use promo code PARKS20 to get $20 off your next purchase of $200 or more at Solostove.com.

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