Stiltsville: An Offshore Hideaway at Biscayne National Park

2024-02-02 00:16:31

Explore our national parks — their history, their people, and their stories.

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Set against the backdrop of Miami's skyline, six structures rise from the turquoise waters

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of Biscayne Bay.

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Rugged and isolated, these houses on stilts are an unexpected sight in the midst of a

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National Park water world that was designated to preserve the coral reefs, seagrasses,

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mangrove forests, and other natural features.

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Cormorants and herons perch on the roofs, railings, and pylons of the houses.

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Dolphins and manatees swim between them.

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Together, these six structures are all that remain of the whimsical history of Stiltsville,

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although none are among the original 27 that formed this curiosity in a National Park that

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is 95% water.

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How did such a village come to exist, and what does the future hold for these few relics

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that remain?

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I'm Jason Epperson, and this is the America's National Parks Podcast.

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The very first Stiltsville structures were, in essence, shacks.

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In the 1930s, crawfish Eddie Walker established a barge in the middle of Biscayne Bay.

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No stilts involved.

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He sold bait and tackle, a bit of chowder and sandwiches, and, as legend has it, dabbled

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in booze and gambling.

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Even prior to crawfish Eddie, according to local lore, in the midst of Prohibition in

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the 1920s, about a dozen shacks appeared and were known as hotspots for smuggling liquor.

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People believed that because they were more than a mile offshore, they were beyond the

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reach of the law, and they would escape police raids.

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Other people latched onto the idea and built shacks on floating platforms, or even upon

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the remains of boats that had run aground in the narrow waters of the bay.

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A tottering collection of ramshackle cabins dotted the bay, and the area became known

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as The Shacks.

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The appeal grew, and families began to build recreational homes on stilts in Biscayne Bay.

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They sank pylons into the sandy bed beneath the seagrasses to establish a more solid foundation

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than the original shacks.

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They built sturdy platforms and constructed houses atop them.

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Among the wholesome family getaways, organizations constructed stilt buildings as well, as social

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clubs.

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Stiltsville came to be known as the place to be seen among the trendy factions of Miami

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culture.

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There was still an element of the earlier racy reputation with wild parties, but for

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the most part, Stiltsville was a collection of family vacation homes, where people escaped

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to the remote waters of Biscayne Bay, accessible only by boat.

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By the late 1950s, 27 houses had been constructed in Stiltsville.

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Its reputation throughout its several decades' history ran the gamut from illicit club parties

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and liaisons, to a place to make homemade hooch, to simple leisure getaways where extended

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families could sunbathe, fish, and swim without the crowds of resort towns.

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Then disaster struck.

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In September 1960, Category 4 Hurricane Donna swept through the Florida Keys and Biscayne

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Bay with sustained winds of 138 mph and gusts up to 178, with a storm surge of 13 feet.

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20 of the 27 Stiltsville houses were destroyed in the storm.

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Eight were rebuilt, but the effects of storms and other effects of nature on the wide, exposed

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expanse of Biscayne Bay continued to take their toll.

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A fire in 1961 destroyed the large and thriving Quarter Deck Club in Stiltsville, and then

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in 1965, the government stepped in.

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Any home that sustained damage to more than 50% of its structure had to be taken down.

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Perhaps that was generous, considering all of these structures were unpermitted on unowned

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land – if you can even call it land.

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The remaining 17 buildings were required to be hoisted onto pilings nine feet above the

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normal waterline.

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That met current building safety code.

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Eight new Stiltsville homes were constructed, bringing the total of the remaining Stiltsville

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structures nearly back to its heyday.

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But the times were changing.

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In 1965, the state of Florida finally licensed the quarter-acre plots under each Stiltsville

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house to the owner.

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In 1976, that policy was amended to state that the licenses would expire in 1999 and

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any remaining houses would be dismantled.

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In 1980, the boundaries of Biscayne National Park expanded to include the area containing

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the remaining Stiltsville houses.

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The park agreed to honor the leases with the existing expiration date.

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Stiltsville's existence was marching towards a firm end.

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In August of 1992, Hurricane Andrew, with its 174 mph winds, destroyed all but seven

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of the remaining Stiltsville houses.

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None of the original 27 lasted.

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In the intervening years, an additional Stiltsville house that survived Hurricane Andrew was destroyed,

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leaving just seven, including the six that remain today.

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Stiltsville will never see the rekindling of its former glory.

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Eco-preservation, claims to the sandy floor of the bay under the houses, and the expanding

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boundaries of Biscayne National Park have eliminated the free-for-all atmosphere that

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surrounded the creation of the Stiltsville houses.

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A valiant attempt was launched in 1998 to get the Stiltsville houses on the National

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Register of Historic Places, but in the end it failed.

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Perhaps the nature of houses, however historic, on the open waters of the bay was considered

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too ephemeral to warrant long-term protection.

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After all, every single one of the original Stiltsville houses had failed to survive the

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harsh conditions of the environment.

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Not even all the rebuilt homes had survived.

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With the end approaching, controversy erupted.

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The park wanted the buildings removed, as per the lease agreement, with a 1999 target

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date.

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Removal would be at the expense of the owners of each of the remaining Stiltsville houses.

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Public opinion varied.

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The deadline was extended.

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The park agreed to allow the houses to remain, but they would fall under park ownership and

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be open to the public for tours.

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Eviction notices were issued, and then deadlines extended again.

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Inspections showed that the structures were in poor condition.

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In 2003, the Stiltsville Trust was established by the superintendent of Biscayne National

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Park.

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Officially, the owners would become caretakers of their houses, and a clause was enacted

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to allow limited public access for activities such as camera shoots, artists-in-residence,

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or conferences.

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Today, six houses remain.

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One house was damaged by Hurricane Irma in 2017, but repairs are underway.

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The seventh house to survive Hurricane Andrew was consumed by fire in 2021.

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The rule still stands that if a house is more than 50 percent damaged, it must be taken

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down.

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It's a delicate environmental balance.

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Construction for repairs and renovation can be harsh on the fragile seagrasses and the

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native wildlife, but so can the removal of the remains of a damaged house.

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Pilings from at least one former house have been left in place and form a sort of man-made

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reef.

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The houses are a curiosity.

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They have been featured on television shows, documentaries, books, and magazines, advertisements

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even.

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The Pittsburgh Paint Company used Stiltsville as a very visual example of how well their

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paint would hold up to weathering under the harsh conditions on the bay.

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In fact, the colors of some of the houses are the first thing to catch the eye.

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Baby blue and white, daffodil yellow with bright green shutters, yellow with pink shutters.

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The largest of the houses is the blue and yellow home of the Powerboat Club.

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It's a far cry from the party days of the quirky Watertown's past.

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The raucous parties, the nude sunbathing, hiding away offshore from the far reaches

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of the law.

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The Powerboat Club is the only remaining club structure, the oldest remaining structure,

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period, and it's family-oriented, with docking for up to 20 boats, a big water slide off

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the dock, and rope swings to entertain the children.

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The park and the caretakers jointly manage the Stiltsville houses under the auspices

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of the Stiltsville Trust.

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Half of the board of directors is comprised of the caretakers and the rest represent the

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public's interest.

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It's a delicate job juggling the preservation of the houses with the preservation of the

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natural environment, and the two are sometimes at odds with each other.

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It's not just the threat of storms, the wind, and the relentless southern Florida

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sun.

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The houses serve as a convenient resting and roosting places for the endless stream of

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birds that call Biscayne Bay home.

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Cormorant droppings are caustic to the wood of the houses.

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The caretakers are responsible for keeping the houses well-maintained to ensure that

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they're not eyesores in the national park, a hazard to boaters, or a threat to the fragile

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balance of the ecosystem.

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The remaining houses are glorious tributes to a long and storied history.

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Large or small, natural wood or wild colors, they all contribute to this novel, odd, weirdly

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wonderful sight in the midst of Biscayne Bay.

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Biscayne National Park in Homestead, Florida is best explored by boat or snorkeling.

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The park is open 24 hours a day, every day of the year, and preserves 270 square miles

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between Key Biscayne and Key Largo.

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A tiny sliver of shoreline flakes the park.

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The only other land consists of the Keys that dot the expanse of the water.

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Keys, by the way, are distinguished from other islands because they are formed from remnants

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of ancient coral reefs.

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The park and its affiliated outfitters offer canoe and kayak rentals, guided paddling and

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snorkeling trips, and boat cruises that explore the Keys, the flora and fauna, and the history

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of this area, including Stiltsville.

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The human history of the park stretches back over 10,000 years, from historic Paleo-Indian

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tribes to pineapple farmers to the modern-day Tequesta peoples.

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Numerous shipwrecks lie beneath the waters of the park and can be explored on diving

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expeditions.

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The park does allow fishing, but lobstering is prohibited.

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The Visitor Center offers exhibits, films, and art galleries.

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The Junior Ranger Program includes scavenger hunt activities.

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Biscayne National Park Institute provides educational adventures as well as opportunities

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to participate in marine debris cleanup events.

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The park consists of a plethora of birds, crustaceans, molluscs, fish, mammals, and

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reptiles, including endangered species like the small-toothed sawfish, leatherback sea

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turtle, wood stork, finback whale, manatee, humpback whale, and sperm whale.

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The small slips of land within the park contain numerous endangered plant species, including

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beech peanut, dollar orchid, Florida boxwood, and sergeant's cherry palm.

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The seagrass habitat contains three specific types – turtlegrass, manateegrass, and shoalgrass.

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Beyond providing a food source for marine animals, seagrass establishes fertile, protected

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breeding grounds.

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Boca Chita Cay is the most popular island in the park.

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It has a hiking trail, a lighthouse, a beach, and docking facilities.

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A trip to Biscayne National Park can be easily paired with Everglades National Park.

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Both have primary entrances in Homestead, Florida.

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Big Cypress National Preserve is a short drive away.

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For a longer adventure, drive down to Key West and take a boat or seaplane to Dry Tortugas

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National Park.

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This episode of America's National Parks was written by Lauren Eisenberg Davis, and

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I'm your host, Jason Epperson.

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If you enjoyed the show, please consider leaving us a rating and a review, and if you're

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new here, make sure to subscribe to the podcast to get new episodes delivered to your feed.

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If you're looking for photos and tips about visiting national parks, check out our America's

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National Parks Facebook group, and if you're interested in RV travel, we hope you'll

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also check out our RV Miles podcast and YouTube channel.

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Today's show was sponsored by L.L. Bean.

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Follow the hashtag BeAnOutsider and visit LLBean.com to find great gear for exploring

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the national parks.

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And by Solostove, use promo code PARKS20OFF to get $20 off your next purchase of $200

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or more at Solostove.com.

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