The power of junk food companies in Washington

2023-08-11 00:23:11

Every Friday, Guardian columnist and former Washington correspondent, Jonathan Freedland, invites experts to help analyse the latest in American politics. From politicians to journalists covering the White House and beyond, Jonathan and his guests give listeners behind the scenes access to how the American political machine works.

1Speaker 1
00:00.00 – 00:01.46

This is The Guardian.

2Speaker 2
00:11.94 – 00:30.48

I'm Jonathan Friedland, columnist at The Guardian, and this is Politics. Weekly America. We're doing something a bit different this week. We thought we would venture outside Washington and look at an area where activists have implored politicians to get more involved. We're talking about food deserts.

1Speaker 1
00:30.58 – 00:39.12

So food deserts are areas where it's very difficult to obtain healthy foods, primarily in urban areas, although in rural areas as well.

2Speaker 2
00:39.66 – 00:51.90

Dr. Eduardo J. Gomez is an associate professor in the College of Health at Lehigh University. I spoke to Eduardo when he was in London promoting his new book, Junk Food Politics.

1Speaker 1
00:52.04 – 01:13.94

Because of supermarkets that used to be there, moving out to other areas in the U...S. It's often been in the suburb areas, following individuals with higher incomes, but in urban areas where we're very poor. Food deserts are often where people can't find healthy foods that they would need to avoid a host of ailments associated with foods.

2Speaker 2
01:14.48 – 01:27.70

So when and why did these food deserts first emerge? How has the fast food industry become so powerful? And despite the growing rate of obesity in the U.S, why aren't politicians stepping in to improve nutrition?

1Speaker 1
01:31.66 – 01:54.30

In these areas, there's certainly a lot of food, it's not an issue of food insecurity. The food is often high in fat, high caloric. So you're talking about fast foods, chicken establishments, McDonald's a whole bunch of different kinds of fast food establishments. So that's not really the issue, the issue is the nutritional quality of food if you're looking for fresh fruits and vegetables.

01:54.54 – 02:04.00

Here in London, you walk around different neighborhoods, you have open markets with fruits and vegetables. In a lot of urban food deserts, it's very difficult to find places like that.

2Speaker 2
02:04.28 – 02:14.76

We're going to drill down really deeply into how this came about. But in a sentence or two, what has to happen to make a village, a town, an area, a county, a food desert? How does it happen?

1Speaker 1
02:14.76 – 02:57.28

I think this has been a gradual process, but I think it starts off with supermarkets, grocery stores, mom and pop stores, or even large supermarkets that are fleeing and moving. With higher income individuals going into suburbs. Another condition that I think contributes this is to poverty, to violence, so increasing violence in urban areas, an increase in low income poverty. Where grocery stores don't feel that there are sufficient individuals present to purchase their foods, these are all contributing factors to the flight of supermarkets. There's been several efforts to address this, but I think those are the two conditions that I think will lead to a food desert.

2Speaker 2
02:58.04 – 03:15.34

Just give us a sense of what it would be like for somebody who lives in such a place, a food desert. What lengths they would have to go to, in some ways, literally how far they might have to travel before they get a fresh carrot or a tomato that isn't sliced up and in a burger bun?

1Speaker 1
03:15.86 – 03:19.26

I think a great example is in the rural south, in the U.

03:19.26 – 03:45.32

S There's several cases where people have to take one or two buses out of their town to find a food store that has these fruits and vegetables. They get to this place taking two buses. Or even in urban areas, in urban centers, where supermarkets can be several blocks away, where there's a lack of access to readily available transportation. If you feel unsafe taking public buses, having to walk several blocks.

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Can you imagine the very, very cold weathers in Minneapolis, for example, where there's freezing temperatures, a lot of snow on the ground? It's very difficult for people to actually physically move and walk to supermarkets that are far away, and transportation isn't often the most reliable. So that's what's really unique about these food deserts.

2Speaker 2
04:11.06 – 04:35.54

So I want to get into the politics of food and the food industry a bit. And you've done a lot of really important work on that. So let's just go back to the beginnings of this industry. It is one that is almost seen as synonymous with the United States. Those golden arches are almost as iconically recognizable as the stars and stripes themselves.

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But how did this happen, how did it start that these huge global names got started in the U.S? Just give us something of the roots of this fast food industry in America.

1Speaker 1
04:47.68 – 05:00.08

Well, I think it had to do with a massive increase in employment. There are the 50s and 60s, more and more individuals going to work, more and more individuals having access to income. You had some fast food establishments?

05:00.18 – 05:19.30

And the fast food culture that started to arise, you also had television and radio, and just a list of all the other fast foods. That sort of mirrored the change in pace and lifestyles of Americans ...that were becoming more and more busier and having more disposable income. And, as you said, this sort of started very early.

05:19.44 – 05:35.28

In my research, I've looked at developing nations, and this is what they're really experiencing since the 90s and 2000s. But in the U..S, this happened decades before. And so there's been a lot more experience, a lot more opportunity for these industries to grow as economic powerhouses.

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And have a lot of political connections. Which still goes on to this day and is now only starting to emerge in other emerging economies.

2Speaker 2
05:44.18 – 06:02.78

I do want to drill down into that sociological shift because I'm picturing 1950s America. People will be familiar with those archive pictures of the first fast food branches, outlets that opened. In my mind, that development is quite associated with....

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You know, on top of the things you've mentioned, the proliferation, the rise and rise of the motor car, more people having cars, therefore drive-through restaurants popping up.

1Speaker 1
06:13.78 – 06:20.90

You'll like our pizza pies made from a famous Italian recipe. They're waiting for you right now at the concession stand.

2Speaker 2
06:21.22 – 06:35.86

And drive-in cinemas also. The changing women's lives, their increasing participation in the workforce, and how. As they therefore became more and more time poor, that old assumption that they would be stay-at-home wives and mothers.

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Cooking for everyone. But that assumption sort of fell away, it stopped being the norm, and therefore, I'm guessing, the demand for fast food restaurants went up pretty significantly.

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Am I right about that?

1Speaker 1
06:50.00 – 07:02.18

No, you're absolutely right. Dual income families, that's a phenomenon that started to increase dramatically soon after this vast economic growth. And so, like you said, you had families that were not working as....

07:02.18 – 07:12.24

Working, dual income, not being at home as much. And so that was certainly a big contributing factor and the need for that quick meal outside of the home. Yes, absolutely.

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You're absolutely right there.

2Speaker 2
07:13.10 – 07:25.74

And so, as you said, these big companies, big, successful companies in any field. Food is one of them, but you can see the same in the fossil fuel industry.

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Or in tobacco, whatever it is. A huge part of their success is the help they get from Washington, D.C. Political decisions So tell us how decisions made by politicians have helped. The likes of Coca-cola, McDonald's Kentucky fried Chicken and all the rest of them.

1Speaker 1
07:44.54 – 08:01.44

Yes, absolutely so. There have been politicians and congressmen that have, of course, supported these industries, industries that are supported by that rely on farmers. Remember, even Democrats are very concerned that their farming constituents can sell their products.

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To companies that make these ultra-processed foods. So you have Democrats that are supporting this, you have Republicans that believe in free markets, the opportunity for industries to grow. And so there's always been a lot of congressional support.

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Indirect support for these industries, and sometimes presidents partner with major industries. For example, under the Obama administration, which was highly committed to combating childhood obesity, the Obama administration partnered with Walmart, for example.

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To work in these food deserts, and Walmart doesn't always sell the most healthy products. And I talk about this in my book as well. That in other countries, presidents often partner with these industries to achieve alternative social welfare and economic goals.

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Every president wants to have employment, job opportunities. These industries provide that. There's always that incentive for presidents to use these industries and meet these alternative objectives while overlooking the broader health implications for their society.

2Speaker 2
09:03.86 – 09:20.06

And so would it be the case that those people who were farmers or others who were involved or engaged in making healthier foods just didn't have the political clout and muscle that some of these big processed food giants had, by comparison?

09:20.24 – 09:26.06

I mean, was Washington tilting to support one, in effect, over the other?

1Speaker 1
09:26.72 – 09:37.50

Well, I think so, I think that you could say that. And also we have to remember that even those farmers or individuals that want to sell healthier foods don't have the resources to employ lobbyists.

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And lobbyists are very expensive, which these major industries can employ, and this is very important. Lobbyists play such an important role in the U.S and so these corporations have that funding availability.

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Whereas farmers or others that want to sell these healthier products don't. So there's a vast difference in resources that explains these differences in political influence.

2Speaker 2
10:03.36 – 10:18.00

Despite that sheer muscle and might of these giants. Nevertheless, over the recent decades, people have thought more about their health and have realized that, yeah, vast quantities of burgers and fries isn't terribly healthy.

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And that, you know, people were writing about that, they were talking about it. As that shift happened, and people became more conscious of health and wanting to eat more healthily.

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How did these companies respond?

1Speaker 1
10:30.78 – 10:38.86

Fear and opportunity, fear of, like you said, a lot of individuals in the U.S having learned about what's good for you, what's not good for you.

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Nutritional knowledge I always tell the story. I was on campus recently at my university, and a young lady that was behind me was thinking about buying a cookie. And I overheard her asking her friend.

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Well, really should I do that? It's so high in sugar and fat. That mindset was absent when I was in college in the 90s. Young people today are more aware of the nutritional content of their foods.

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And this is scary in corporations. You also have the innovations like soda taxes in California, where individuals, because of the politics surrounding the soda tax, are learning about how bad sodas are for you. We've seen data showing that there's been a decline in sugary beverage consumption.

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Children in the U.

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S All these factors are really concerning industries. And it's providing and incentivizing them to turn to other emerging markets, to really find those markets that have not seen that kind of nutritional awareness happen. We have to remember that this is something very new.

11:37.31 – 11:46.21

In a lot of the emerging economies around the world, in Africa, South America, Asia, and so we really, that's sort of what needs to be addressed and recognized.

2Speaker 2
11:46.71 – 12:05.33

I mean, your book, Junk Food Politics, says this, the subtitle How beverage and fast food industries are reshaping emerging economies. As if this is exactly as you say, that they're needing to target consumers who are not perhaps as health aware abroad. But didn't something like that happen within the United States?

12:05.41 – 12:20.95

That as people were getting more aware of healthy food, perhaps in the cities, then the companies, the big food giants, thought, okay. We need to target consumers who are less aware and find those in other, perhaps poorer, parts of America.

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Where did they go?

1Speaker 1
12:22.29 – 12:40.33

Oh, absolutely, that's a great point. So, targeted financing of major ultra-processed food corporations, primarily in low income communities. I believe the Guardian has actually written about this as well, where Black and Latino communities in poor urban areas.

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Are often targeted through, for example, Spanish channels and marketing of McDonald's and other kinds of products. And I think that's where these industries are now. It seems to be focusing their attention on, rather than those that are more knowledgeable.

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And don't live in these sort of urban, impoverished areas.

2Speaker 2
12:59.77 – 13:10.71

And so part of that would be going rural, I would have thought into those rural areas in America. Perhaps. Is that one step on the way to those food deserts?

1Speaker 1
13:11.05 – 13:20.67

Oh yes, absolutely. I think what we're seeing, a really good example of this is the dollar stores. This is a phenomenon in the U.S. I'm sure it's present in the U.K.

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As well, and different labels for them. But these are stores that market where there's very cheap dollar or less chains, and a lot of these stores have moved into rural areas.

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They've moved into suburban areas. Opponents argue that discount stores are quickly taking over poor communities where residents have limited access to fresh produce. Dollar stores do not offer fresh food.

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And they are usually stocked with highly processed items. Lawmakers in some cities, including Birmingham, Oklahoma City and Tulsa.

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Have passed legislation prohibiting dollar stores from opening within a mile of each other. But communities are starting to push back in rural areas and suburban areas, mainly because of their threat to local food establishments.

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That have been there for a long time. The threat that they pose to not employing as many individuals, the lack of access to fresh foods. But some communities have actually used state legislation to mandate that a percentage of the food.

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Sold in these dollar stores or in Walmarts, have fresh fruits and vegetables. But I think the dynamic in these rural areas is the establishment of these big mega dollar stores.

2Speaker 2
14:36.05 – 14:52.33

One tactic that has been discussed a bit, partly because it seems to replicate the tactic used by lobbyists for the gun and tobacco industry. And that is this thing known as preemption laws. Now that can get a bit technical.

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So, in as simple language as you can, can you just explain what a preemption law is and how it works?

1Speaker 1
14:59.35 – 15:11.13

Well, I believe you're referring to the soda taxes, sort of taxes on goods, so preemptive law, making sure that having an agreement. I think this happened in California with the soda tax.

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In what some are calling a power play at the state Capitol, lawmakers passed a bill to ban future taxes on sugary drinks. This after the beverage industry convinced more than a million Californians.

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To sign a petition for a state ballot measure that would make it hard to raise any local taxes. Industries wanted to forbid the further emergence of any further soda taxes in the future. So one thing that happened.

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Is that cities that were influenced by these industries threatened not to pay any tax if they were to force a soda tax? So state legislature in California were faced with a dilemma.

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Where do we not get tax from the state or do we impose a soda tax? And, of course, that's just a decision that you have to acquiesce to. And this is a problem because it sets a precedent for other states in a federal system like ours.

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And we saw this with Covid-19.

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States behave radically differently on legislation. But we also have diffusion, where ideas and success of some industries and their success diffuses to others.

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So this is the fear that we have on the soda tax issue.

2Speaker 2
16:19.97 – 16:36.23

All of this is extraordinary if you only look at one number, and that is that. The Centers for Disease Control estimate that the annual cost to the United States of obesity in the United States.

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Came in at nearly 173 billion dollars in 2019. That alone, you would think, would make the, you know, the United States population is, leaders say.

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This is just costing us too much, it's putting too big a strain on the health care system. Therefore, we're just going to face down the fast food lobbies, the food and beverage lobbies.

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Because it's in our own self-interest, if only in terms of the cost of this great health care burden. Given that, why does the fast food lobby not have a problem dealing with, as it were, the taxpayer lobby, who just doesn't want to keep paying?

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For this massive health problem that is created by these products.

1Speaker 1
17:23.99 – 17:30.69

To talk about this politically, you have two forces, you have those that we recognize. This is a problem with our children's health.

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With, you know, adolescent health, with the poor's health. On the other hand, there's a lot of people within our government and in other countries to see this as an individual problem and not of the taxpayers problem.

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In a lot of societies, this is what I call a contested epidemic, where it's individuals and acting irresponsibly. And the solution is trying to provide them with more information. And that we should not be using our own state resources to do that, and so that's the major problem that we have in the U.S.

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Is two political forces that are going head to head on this issue. One thing that has really struck me is that the increase in childhood obesity, the increase in adolescent type 2 diabetes, type 2 diabetes was something we saw with older populations.

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Now, the data shows, it's increasing dramatically in the U.

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S in adolescents and teenagers. Despite all these vulnerable groups, we all thought that children would convince policy makers that something needs to be done on advertising.

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Advertising to children that still nothing has been done in the U..S, and adults, of course. And the health implications associated with these foods.

2Speaker 2
18:34.89 – 18:49.23

And so you've got these two conflicting trends in America that I'm always very struck by whenever I travel there. You've got, on the one hand, this obesity crisis, really, where it's estimated that 4 in 10 people.

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2 in 5 of the population are, by the definition, the body mass index definition, obese.

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And yet, on the other hand, you also do have a big strain in American culture, where people can be really fastidious about their food. And there's signs everywhere when you go for the healthy option and calories being advertised on some products.

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Do you see this as being again political in the sense that it's a red state, blue state thing, where there's whole foods and healthy option menus in blue states?

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Democrat states, and meanwhile, it's fast food and bans on even knowing what calories are in the food you're eating in Republican red states. And if that is right.

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Is this one of these problems that just isn't going to be resolved? It's part of the culture war. Like wearing masks was. You're going to have one America that wants to get healthy, and he's actually pretty slim.

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And another America that is not even allowed the information to get healthy, and he's going to remain grappling with this obesity problem.

1Speaker 1
19:55.71 – 20:07.37

Absolutely right, that's a great point. I think you really hit it on the head there. I think that if you go to blue States, you'll definitely see a lot more commitment to these food regulations.

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You know again, New York, for example, was the first to have this mandated information on menus. In any blue state, you'll have more progressive commitment in red states.

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It's really like you said. And this was reflected in COVId-19, where libertarian values of individual responsibility and rights that precedes everything, when it even to public health, to food.

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And I think that's why you've seen in Florida, like you mentioned, that ban on anything that requires any kind of information on menus. And what is the solution to that? I don't think, honestly, that there is a solution, I think, that as long as federalism prevails.

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That will always happen. Unfortunately, we're not in a situation where the central government has a strong influence on this, on providing regulations, it's a decentralized, federalist context.

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Where state governments are in charge and governors play a leadership role.

2Speaker 2
21:03.61 – 21:19.57

Just a closing thought Do you see a future, Eduardo, where food deserts don't exist anymore in America? I mean, will do you think they ever be gone, or are they just a permanent part of the American landscape?

1Speaker 1
21:20.21 – 21:30.07

I'm very optimistic. And the reason is more and more academics communities. You know, at Lehigh University, where I am, we have wonderful faculty working with our local communities.

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On gardening and educating local communities. We also have climate change, which is in urban heating, which is going to incentivize the creation of green spaces and planting of trees.

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And so the fear of, you know, the urban heating problem. In addition to nutritional knowledge, I think I'm optimistic that we will have better choices. What we really need, though, is more nutritional knowledge and working with communities.

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So when I lived in Camden, New Jersey, which is a food desert, I think it's, I think, number one food desert in New Jersey. I was in a school board that educated families on how to cook properly. These are the kind of things that we also need in addition to these two other factors.

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But I'm optimistic, I certainly think that we can overcome and achieve on that.

2Speaker 2
22:19.51 – 22:32.25

The book is Junk Food Politics How beverage and fast food industries are reshaping emerging economies. Eduardo Gomez, thank you so much for talking to us on Politics Weekly America.

1Speaker 1
22:32.61 – 22:34.31

Thank you. it's wonderful to be on your show. thank you.

2Speaker 2
22:35.07 – 22:46.83

And that is all from me for this week. Next time, my wonderful colleague Joni Grieve will be in this chair, so do make sure to listen in. But for now, it's goodbye. The producer is Daniel Stephens.

22:47.15 – 22:53.47

The executive producer, Maz Ebtehaj I'm Jonathan Friedland. Thanks as always for listening.

1Speaker 1
23:02.09 – 23:03.85

This is The Guardian.

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