Discovering The Bighorn

for heading outdoors and exploring all the possibilities of the season.

On a chilly hike, it's the littlest comforts that make a big difference.

One small addition to your hiking pack is a hand towel that you can use to make a clean

seat anywhere.

It's a fraction of the weight and size of a camp chair, and it turns the dirtiest rock,

log, or stretch of ground into a perfect seat for a quick rest.

For more tips, easy how-tos, and inspiring stories, visit LLBean.com slash guide.

Nestled within the rugged landscapes of Montana and Wyoming, Bighorn Canyon is a testament

to nature's artistry and the relentless force of time.

Carved by millennia of water erosion from the Bighorn River, this expansive chasm presents

a breathtaking tableau of dramatic cliffs, verdant valleys, and winding waterways.

Each bend of the river and twist of the canyon tells a story, one of ancient geological processes

and the indomitable spirit of life that has thrived in its niches.

I'm Jason Epperson, and today on America's National Parks, we dive deep into the majestic

Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area and the daredevils of yesteryears who explored

its enigmatic depths.

Spanning approximately 55 miles in length, Bighorn Canyon is not just an awe-inspiring

geological formation, it's a living mosaic of diverse ecosystems.

The canyon walls, rising majestically in places to more than a thousand feet, exhibit a spectrum

of colors ranging from the soft pastels of sunlit limestone to the deep russet and amber

hues of shaded sandstone.

These walls, adorned with etchings of time, have witnessed the passage of numerous creatures,

from the footprints of Native American tribes to the present-day meanderings of wild mustangs,

deer, and bighorn sheep, of course.

The waters of the Bighorn River, once the primary sculptor of the canyon, now serve

as a lifeblood for a myriad of species.

With each ripple and wave, the river continues to shape the canyon, albeit at a pace imperceptible

to the human eye, but very much alive in geological time.

Along its shores, cottonwood trees stand tall, their leaves whispering tales of seasons past,

and of the abundant wildlife that seeks refuge in their shade.

Beyond its natural allure, Bighorn Canyon is steeped in rich history and cultural significance.

From ancient petroglyphs etched onto its walls by indigenous peoples to tales of intrepid

explorers mapping its vastness, the canyon has always been a beacon for those drawn to

the mysteries of the wild.

During their return to St. Louis in 1806, the Lewis and Clark Expedition encountered

adventurers already traveling back north along the Missouri River, lured by the prospect

of beaver fur.

As word spread out about the abundant beaver populations in the upper Missouri and northern

Rockies, a new chapter of exploration and commerce spanning three decades began in

these regions.

The Green River Basin in western Wyoming, abundant in beaver resources, became the epicenter

of this fur trade.

Several factors made this region desirable.

One, beavers in the northern Rockies had denser fur compared to those further south.

Two, beaver pelts used in fashionable hat-making were in high demand.

And three, the sheer volume of beavers in the region was unparalleled.

Some of these adventurers began to journey to the Bighorn Canyon region via the Bad Pass

Trail.

In 1807, Manuel Lisa, a businessman from St. Louis, spearheaded one such fur collection

expedition.

His team established Fort Raymond, the earliest permanent edifice in present-day Montana,

at the confluence of the Bighorn and Yellowstone Rivers.

It wasn't until 16 years later that trappers once again ventured into the Bighorn Canyon.

These mountain men in the employ of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, led by William Ashley

and Andrew Henry, initiated a bustling decade between 1823 and 1833, with the Bad Pass Trail

seeing significant foot traffic.

Esteemed explorers like Jedediah Smith, Jim Bridger, Robert Campbell, and Jim Beckworth

were among those who traipsed this rugged western edge of Bighorn Canyon, from the mouth

of the Shoshone River to the mouth of Grapevine Creek.

One may guess from its name that Bad Pass Trail was not an easy trail, but it was better

than the alternatives, crossing the mountains or drowning in the untamed waters of the Bighorn

River.

By 1833, competitors funded by magnate John Jacob Astor, including Captain Benjamin Bonneville

and Nathan Wythe, converged on the trail, marking the final era of fur traders in the

region.

Challenges posed by the trail, from its demanding topography to potential conflicts with the

indigenous tribes, led many to abandon it.

The decline of the beaver fur trade in the 1830s, coupled with the depletion of prime

trapping grounds and a shift in fashion toward silk hats, further hastened the end of the

era.

Yet, the mountain men's voyages around the Bighorn Canyon left an indelible mark.

Their brief yet impactful foray, a mix of exploration, trade, and interactions with

native populations, paved the way for further exploration.

Ah, you hear that?

It's the sound of a crackling fire.

But this just isn't any old campfire.

This is a smokeless, solo-stove fire pit.

How can you tell?

Well, you don't hear any coughing, hand wafting, or people complaining about smoke in their

eyes.

All you can hear are logs turning to coals as the night sky becomes a cosmic canvas.

With Bonfire by Solo Stove, you get a fire pit that's portable, burns smoke off before

it ever leaves the pit, and is backed by a lifetime warranty.

Use promo code PARKS20, that's P-A-R-K-S-2-0, to get $20 off your next purchase of $200

or more at SoloStove.com.

That's PARKS20 for $20 off at SoloStove.com.

In the shadow of the looming American Civil War, 1859 witnessed the War Department dispatching

two officers to spearhead a survey expedition into the Bighorn and Yellowstone country.

Captain William F. Reynolds, like Reynolds with an A, and Lieutenant H.E. Menardier were

entrusted with the task.

Their assignment?

To traverse from Fort Laramie's vicinity, northwestward, along the Bighorn's base, meandering

towards Fort Benton and eventually reaching the Bitterroot Valley.

Their journey mapped out a course along the Yellowstone River, steering them to the Bighorn's

confluence.

From there, they were to scale up the canyon's mouth.

Depending on time and conditions, the Reynolds expedition would either hunker down for the

1859 winter, or push further up the Bighorn towards Wind River.

Their subsequent year would be consumed with explorations in the Missouri and Yellowstone

River regions.

The expedition was furnished with a $60,000 budget, an eight-member tactical team, and

a 30-man infantry unit for protection.

A seasoned mountain man, Jim Bridger, with unparalleled familiarity of the region, was

enlisted as the group's guide, drawing a monthly wage of $125.

The latter half of May 1859 saw them departing St. Louis, their steamboats brimming with

supplies, goods for fur trading, and annuities earmarked for the Sioux.

Come June 28 at Fort Pierre, presently central South Dakota, the overland journey began.

Skirting the black hills, they steered northwards, advancing into the Powder River region.

However, navigating the area with bulky wagons proved daunting.

Bridger, leveraging his experience, persuaded Reynolds to redirect towards the Yellowstone.

Yet, before they veered off, they explored a substantial stretch of the Tongue River.

By mid-August, they touched down at the Yellowstone and had their inaugural encounter with the

Crow tribe.

Reynolds, in his records, painted a vivid image of the Crow, men of average height with

striking attire.

Their distinguishing headgear, crafted from buffalo hide, sported an expansive visor,

complemented by a spiked band, exuding an air of royalty.

Their overall demeanor, paired with their arsenal of guns, bows, and arrows, hinted

at their formidable reputation as warriors.

By August 29, the expedition reached Fort Sarpy, a stone's throw from the Bighorn Confluence.

But Reynolds found the fort in disarray.

Its post agent seemed more engrossed in the local trade than aiding the expedition.

Moreover, tensions simmered high between the Crow and the Blackfoot tribes.

Deeming it best after a mere two-day sojourn, the party continued their trek up the Yellowstone,

setting their compass towards the Bighorn.

September 2 marked a strenuous segment of the journey, as the expedition's wagons

labored through sandy terrain, finally arriving at the Bighorn.

Meanwhile, a tactical decision split the group.

Lieutenant Menardier was tasked to revisit the Tongue River region.

The strategy envisioned a reunion of both detachments at Powder River's Middle Fork

within Wyoming's heartland.

Guided by Bridger, the trimmed-down Reynolds expedition maneuvered through the Bighorn

River's valley.

As if their journey wasn't challenging enough, they were soon met with relentless

cold rain that persisted throughout the night and into the morning.

The resultant muck rendered their wagons ineffective.

Reynolds deciding to halt their progress, heeded Bridger's advice to use the flatter

terrain on the Bighorn's west side when they resumed.

By September 5, a quick river forward enabled the group to traverse in a mere quarter hour.

The looming Bighorn Mountains emerged in the distance, though, resembling soft blue clouds.

Come midday, they reached the juncture of the Bighorn and the Little Bighorn, near today's

hardened Montana.

Their progress was swift, covering 17 miles in a single day.

Upon reaching the canyon's mouth, September 9, Reynolds was left awestruck, dubbing it

among the continent's most spectacular sights.

He described the river coursing through reddish walls that soared over 300 feet.

However, their progress was impeded by an insurmountable rock barrier.

The expedition paused here to sketch the scenery and make geological notes.

By the following day, they pivoted southward and eastward, skirting the Bighorns before

establishing their winter camp near today's Casper, Wyoming, on the Oregon Trail.

In 1860, the Reynolds Expedition ventured once again.

Their exploration of the Yellowstone area left an enduring mark.

The Reynolds Pass, situated near the current park's boundaries and named in honor of the

expedition leader, stands as a testament to this historic journey.

The expedition is most renowned for its scientific portrayal of Yellowstone.

However, it also granted Bighorn Canyon its deserved prominence.

No longer shrouded in myths or tales from mountain men, the canyon emerged as a landmark

awaiting future explorations.

The Reynolds journey played an instrumental role in introducing Bighorn Canyon to the

broader public's awareness.

Today, the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area is a haven for adventurers and nature

enthusiasts alike.

It boasts a rich tapestry of recreational activities, from boating in the expansive

Bighorn Lake carved by the Yellowtail Dam, to hiking trails that offer panoramic views

of the canyon's rugged beauty, there's something for everyone.

As you meander through the area, take a moment to reflect on the layers of history beneath

your feet, from ancient peoples and mountain men, to ambitious expeditions and the unyielding

spirit of discovery.

Bighorn Canyon is not just a natural wonder, it's a living chronicle of human perseverance

and ambition.

Whether you're a history buff, an adventurer, or simply someone seeking tranquility, the

canyon awaits.

This episode of America's National Parks was hosted by me, Jason Epperson.

If you enjoyed the show, please consider leaving us a rating and a review.

If you're new here, make sure to subscribe to the podcast to get new episodes delivered

to your feet.

If you're looking for photos and tips about visiting national parks, check out our America's

National Parks Facebook group, and if you're interested in RV travel, we hope you'll also

check out our RV Miles podcast and YouTube channel.

Today's show was sponsored by L.L. Bean.

Follow the hashtag BeAnOutsider and visit LLBean.com to find great gear for exploring

the national parks.

And by Solostove.

Use promo code PARKS20 to get $20 off your next purchase of $200 or more at Solostove.com.